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Model Kits
#31
Shinkalion isn't related to Gundam in any way aside from being another mecha oriented series, but I believe they snuck in a reference to Gundam in one of the earlier episodes.
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#32
I haven't been able to good luck applying clear coats, maybe I should try the Humbrol if I can find it in the States. How much do you thin it?
[Image: super-smiley-emoticon.gif]
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#33
I thin it roughly 50/50. I see a lot of people use Mr. Color GX Super Clear III and though I haven't tried it myself, I wouldn't mind giving it a go in future. Humbrol most likely isn't the best you could get - I just happen to have a lot left over from when I was brand loyal to Hornby Hobbies (Hornby, Airfix, Humbrol) and so rather than waste it I'll use up what I have. In terms of paints I regret buying so much Humbrol enamel as Tamiya acrylic are in my opinion far better in terms of ease of use.
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#34
Thanks FFF

I will look into the Mr Color line of clear. Currently I use Vallejo Air Paint which is acrylic so I wonder how well using Clear Enamel will work over it.
[Image: super-smiley-emoticon.gif]
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#35
Please let me know how that goes, Super.

Regarding going over acrylic with enamel, so long as the acrylic layer is dry it should be safe to do so. I did on my Spitfire. Spraying Acrylic over Enamel is usually a bad mix though and will ruin everything. :/ I found that out on a Tomy Gordon shell, so no great loss there!

What is your experience with Vallejo? They seem to be one of the main paint brands for modellers among Tamiya, Humbrol, Revell and Mr. Hobby but again I haven't used them and wouldn't know if it's worth stocking up on some shades?

On the last page I posted a not so great image of the Rebuilt Bulleid kit project and tonight, after gluing the last few pieces on save for the nameplate backing plates, I took some better pictures.

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And I felt like doing something a little bit different so we ended up with images like these Smile
[Image: d9cb5200b8.png]
[Image: 06cc5415fb.png]

- Tree
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#36
I don't have a lot of experience with Airbrushing and paints that is why I chose the Vallejo Air line as they were no brainers as they can be used straight from the bottle to the airbrush without thinning. I have only used their regular colors a few times and have no complaints. But I haven't had much luck with their Clears but its probably just me. Wish there was a no brainer airbrush clear out there.

On another note, your train is looking great and I look forward to seeing the next stages completed. What do those white circles represent in the front? Are they like drumheads for signage?

[Image: Work29.jpg]
[Image: super-smiley-emoticon.gif]
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#37
Thank you. The white circles are called 'Headcode Discs' and are used to tell signalmen what type of train is approaching. At night these would be replaced by lamps. On the Southern network things worked slightly differently where there were two extra headcode positions on either side of the smokebox door whereas other regions only had three along the bufferbeam and one mounted as high as possible (in front of funnel or on top of smokebox door). The Southern headcodes were more to show where the train was headed rather than what it consisted of. While the one I chose was intended to represent a train originating from Folkestone (a place I visited in England in October), most people would recognise it as just an Express code.

If you were interested to learn more about them (and with a better explanation Wink ) these two sites should help.
Southern Headcodes: http://www.semgonline.com/headcodes/sheadcodes/04.html
Signal box bell codes & loco headcodes: https://www.igg.org.uk/rail/3-sigs/bellhead.htm

- Tree
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#38
It has definitely been an adventure and half which, if nothing else, has taught me to perhaps stick a little closer to the instructions of a kit. It is only lined on one side because I only had lining decals for the 9F tender and cab. Even the numbers were a chore - the 9F kit comes with 4 options in the correct white/cream colour as opposed to the yellow ones in the BoB kit, yet none of those 4 number choices contain the numerals 4 or 8. I had to make a 4 with a 1 and half a 2 while the 8s had to be made using the top curls of 8 2s. If anybody has any OO British Railways locos, I'm sure you know how small the numbers on the front are...

Anyways, say hello to what I presume is the world's first Dapol kitbash of a BR Rebuilt Battle of Britain class!
[Image: fa9cac3369.png]
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And here is a photograph (not mine) of the real loco.
[Image: 558e3a9b12.jpg]

Of course it isn't perfect but I'm definitely happy with it.

As a side note, I realised mid way through the project that a similar kitbash had been done in the past of a Merchant Navy (the earlier, heavier locomotives designed by the same person (Bulleid) which looked extremely similar both before and after rebuilding) which is very well done. (not my pic)
[Image: 03e804cf83.jpg]
The person that made this has a collection of OO Kitmaster loco kits, of which some of the moulds were purchased by Airfix and later Dapol, so I will post a link to their site here: http://www.kitmaster.org.uk/Index.htm

- Tree
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#39
While I’ve always appreciated the “spam can” BoB/West Country class, that rebuilt version is one sexy beast! Nice work on the model!
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#40
Oh she is beautiful 3F. I know what you mean about trying to create a number plate using single number decals. I don't know how the pros get that done as you just can't get them perfect. What I do mostly now is try to make my own but that only works if you have a light colored paint and needing black numbers using Inkjet decal paper as printers don't print white. In your case with the black background and white number I would try to make a number panel with a black background printed on label stickers
[Image: super-smiley-emoticon.gif]
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#41
Decided to start another kit because I had a couple of days off. Originally I planned to build it in one day, then two and now it looks like three. It's a 1:48 Airfix Spitfire Mk. XIX and so far I'm liking the larger scale because it's easier to detail. I imagine kits can only get so big before they begin to get difficult again - not due to the extra detailing it can bring but just by the size of it. I may have to try 1:32 or even 1:24 to test that theory. Anyway, so far I've only done the interior and glued the fuselage halves and wings together. I only really need to mask off the various openings before I can start painting. This one is a photo reconnaissance Spit so it has extra parts for cameras. Whilst I would have built the canopy open anyway, I thought it a shame to waste the pretty parts by either not putting them in or covering them up all together so I had to cut out some of the hatches myself. There are markings on the inside of the fuselage to help with cutting out the right shape and also spare access panel parts to place in the open position.

[Image: 71ab929eb0.png]
[Image: 2d26b56753.png]

Aside from a few design issues with how the fuselage is moulded and how the propeller attaches to the plane, it's quite a good kit. I can't wait to see what it looks like finished.

- Tree
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#42
Very cool Tree, like the details and anxious to follow along.
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#43
So the scores are in and how did I do? Not great...

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But not bad either! I'm still happy with that. Smile

- Tree
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#44
Those are fantastic. You did very well F3
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