What type or brand of AA Battery should I use for my Tomy Talk N Action engines?

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Im gonna ask, what is the best type or brand of AA Battery should I use for my Tomy Talk N Action engine to avoid blowing the fuse? I don't want to break their electrical circuits.
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(This post was last modified: 01-18-2024, 04:47 PM by Trainboy90 Productions.)
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  • Donald9Douglas10Oliver11mp, generic_truck_69420, Super
So I take it there is a problem with these or just something you have experienced as I haven't heard of this before. Off the top of my head, I assume that the fuses blow because of too much volts? Have you tried rechargeables which carry 1.2 vs the 1.5? Of course I have no first hand knowledge as I have none of these trains.
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  • Donald9Douglas10Oliver11mp
I do have Duracell Batteries that are 1.5 Volts and I also bought batteries from Dollar Tree as well.
Making Customs, Filming Videos and looking for the purest engines. That's how I roll here on Blue Plastic Tracks.

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  • Donald9Douglas10Oliver11mp, Super
So do the train fuses always blow when using regular batteries?
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TNA engines have a rating for 1.5V AA batteries so just any 1.5 V AA batteries should work.
Also TNA engines, at Least from what I've observed on mine, don't feature any fuses , they do feature resistors and those transformer any excess energy into heat. Even if one is damaged you can just remove it not necessarily replace as it's not entirely essential.
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  • chrisjo, Super
I have seen fuses (in Talk n Actions and occasionally other Tomy trains) made up of a small frame of brown PCB substrate material with a single thin wire across it that will burn up if too much current is being drawn through it, they are usually located between the two layers of the battery compartment. I have not had any issues with any particular brand or type of batteries blowing these fuses, but if you experience it regularly it is probably because the motor is worn out or the gearbox is putting more strain on it and it is requiring more current from the batteries to operate correctly. The fuse doesn't know the difference between the toy being legitimately broken with a short circuit in the wiring somewhere that could cause the batteries to heat up and the motor just needing to draw more power to run properly, it just burns up when too much current is passed through its wire. You could substitute in a slightly thicker wire that would not burn up as quickly if you are running into problems, or try servicing the motor and gearbox and get it running smoother.

As mentioned by Super, there are several brands of Ni-Mh rechargeable batteries that operate around 1.2 volts instead of 1.5 which may help prevent the fuses from blowing. Eneloops are the "classic" style but Amazon, Ikea, and companies like Panasonic, Sanyo, and many others produce similar rechargeables that can mostly use the same chargers and perform similarly. I have run Talk n Actions on these batteries before and I don't remember having any issues (other than the issues Talk n Actions normally have)
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  • chrisjo, Donald9Douglas10Oliver11mp, MuddyPoppins, Super
If anything I would use tier 1 batteries (Energizer/Duracell) rather than less expensive Rayovac or dollar store brands.
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  • Super
As an aside, I would add that one of the most useful things I've ever bought is this hand-held battery tester.  Cost = peanuts.
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It's also educational to then do some reading on the subject of battery charge and what in general terms constitutes an 'exhausted' battery.  Bottom line is that you won't notice any significant reduction in the performance of a 1.5V rated motor until the battery gets down towards about 1V, which is why a 'nominally 1.5V' re-chargeable AAA. AA, or C cell that's actually only around 1.2V fully charged works absolutely fine for us.

Best NiMH re-chargeable brands for me so far have been Eneloop, GP ReCyko, and VapexTech Instant.  I have a bunch of Eneloop AA cells that are marked Sanyo and are still re-charging just fine, even though the branding was changed to Panasonic in 2009.    In regular cells it's Duracell every time, when they're sensibly priced.
(This post was last modified: 01-20-2024, 10:37 AM by chrisjo.)
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  • Super
I think I like that tester you show Dr Chris. I am going to add it to my collection of Testers and Rechargers. Mainly because it has the actual voltage digital read where, except for my Multi-meter, the one I use always just uses a bar graph. Although my favorite tester is different I love the fact that it tests just about everything, button cells and 3 different mini sizes in addition to a 9 volt, C, D, AA and AAAs.  I will use yours for when I want that quick accurate read especially on the re-chargeables. Although mine is silver (looks like they redesigned since I purchased mine) its pretty much the same. Amazon Link
There are others under different names but the Tenergy brand of rechargables is what I use. I pretty much use the "Low Self Discharge" Tenergys. They are more expensive but I like the fact that they last so much longer. Another big bonus for using rechargables in our trains is the fact that they wont leak and destroy your trains if you forget to remove the batterys thus corroding the contacts and more.

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